SunMi James · Free Skincare Guides

Your Korean skincare
routine — built for you

Simplified, barrier-first routines for every skin type. No overwhelm. No unnecessary steps. Just what actually works.

Fragrance-free K-beauty method Esthetician curated

Routine Guide 01

Dry & Sensitive Skin

Focused on barrier repair, deep hydration, and calming reactive skin. No harsh actives. No overwhelm. Just a stripped-back routine that lets your skin heal.

Gentle low-pH cleanser

Morning · 60 sec

How to apply

Rinse with lukewarm water only in the AM — or use a gentle milky cleanser. No foaming. Pat dry, never rub.

What to look for

pH 4.5–5.5 milk or gel cleanser

Fragrance-free. No sulfates (SLS/SLES). No alcohol. Milky or gel texture only.

Why: Dry sensitive skin doesn't need a full cleanse in the morning — water or a milky rinse preserves overnight barrier repair. Foaming cleansers strip what your PM routine just rebuilt.

Hydrating toner — pat, don't wipe

Damp skin

How to apply

Pour into palms. Press and pat gently into skin — never swipe with a cotton pad. Layer twice if skin feels very tight.

What to look for

Centella or hyaluronic acid toner

Key ingredients: centella asiatica, beta-glucan, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate.

Why: Toner preps skin to absorb everything that follows. Patting (not swiping) delivers hydration without friction on reactive skin.

Barrier repair moisturizer

Still damp skin

How to apply

Apply while skin is still slightly damp from toner. Press in with palms. Warm between hands first — never rub in.

What to look for

Ceramide or squalane cream

Key ingredients: ceramides, squalane, madecassoside, shea butter. Rich but non-comedogenic.

Why: Ceramides rebuild the lipid barrier that holds moisture in. Without this step, everything else evaporates off your skin within the hour.

Mineral SPF 50+ — non-negotiable

Last step · AM only

How to apply

Two finger-lengths of SPF. Pat gently — do not rub. Wait 2–3 minutes before going outside. Reapply every 2 hours outdoors.

What to look for

Mineral or hybrid SPF 50+

Zinc oxide formula. Hydrating base. Fragrance-free. Korean SPFs are the gold standard — lightweight, no white cast.

Why: UV damage is the #1 cause of a compromised skin barrier. No amount of skincare repairs what daily sun exposure breaks down. SPF protects everything else you're doing.

Oil cleanse + gentle second cleanse

First at night · 90 sec

How to apply

Massage oil cleanser onto dry skin for 60 seconds. Emulsify with water, rinse. Follow immediately with your gentle milky cleanser. Pat dry.

What to look for

Cleansing balm or oil + milk cleanser

Balm: no mineral oil. Milk cleanser: same low-pH formula as AM. Never use micellar water as a second cleanse.

Why: Double cleansing removes SPF, pollutants, and sebum without stripping. For dry skin, the oil step does the heavy lifting so the second cleanse stays gentle.

Hydrating toner — layer twice

Damp skin

How to apply

Pat into palms, press into skin. Layer twice at night — wait 30 seconds between layers. This is the 7-skin method foundation.

What to look for

Same centella or HA toner as AM

Consistency matters more than quantity. Same toner morning and night builds cumulative hydration.

Why: Night is when skin repairs itself. Double layering the toner floods skin with hydration so barrier repair happens faster while you sleep.

Heartleaf or centella calming serum

Before cream

How to apply

3–4 drops. Warm between fingertips. Press gently into skin — focus on areas of redness or sensitivity. No rubbing.

What to look for

Heartleaf, cica, or mugwort serum

Key ingredients: houttuynia cordata, centella asiatica, artemisia, madecassoside.

Why: Heartleaf and cica are proven anti-inflammatory ingredients that calm reactive skin and reduce redness overnight — with zero irritation risk.

Rich barrier repair cream

Seal everything in

How to apply

Use slightly more than AM. Press in with palms. Pay extra attention to cheeks, jawline, and any tight areas. Optional: mix in 2–3 drops of facial oil.

What to look for

Same ceramide cream — or richer

PM option: add squalane or rosehip oil mixed into cream for extra barrier nourishment.

Why: Skin loses more water at night (TEWL). A rich ceramide cream stops that moisture loss and feeds your barrier while you sleep.

Sheet mask — 2× per week only

After toner, before cream

How to apply

Apply after toner. Leave 15–20 minutes — never until dry. Remove, pat remaining essence in. Go straight to barrier cream. Do not rinse.

What to look for

Abib Gummy Heartleaf Sheet Mask

Or any calming mask: heartleaf, cica, aloe, mugwort. Avoid brightening or AHA masks for sensitive skin.

Why: Masking 2× a week gives skin a deep hydration reset. The Abib Heartleaf mask delivers quercetin and heartleaf extract — clinically calming for reactive, sensitised skin.

4 golden rules for dry & sensitive skin

No actives for 30 days

No retinol, AHA/BHA, or vitamin C while your barrier is compromised. Rebuild first. Introduce later — one at a time.

Lukewarm water only

Hot water destroys the lipids in your skin barrier. Cold doesn't cleanse. Lukewarm only — every single time.

Pat, never rub

Every product goes on with a pressing and patting motion. Rubbing creates friction that worsens sensitivity and redness.

Less is always more

4–5 products maximum. More products means more potential irritants. Dry sensitive skin heals faster with a simpler routine.

Routine Guide 02

Acne & Oily Skin

Focused on balancing sebum, clearing congestion, and rebuilding a healthy barrier — without stripping your skin dry. Less is more, even for oily skin.

Low-pH gel cleanser

Morning · 60 sec

How to apply

Gentle gel or foam cleanser. Lukewarm water. Massage 30–60 seconds, rinse thoroughly. Pat dry with a clean towel.

What to look for

pH 4.5–5.5 gel cleanser

Fragrance-free. No harsh sulfates. Light lather is fine — avoid stripping foam. Look for tea tree or centella.

Why: Over-cleansing triggers more oil production. A balanced low-pH cleanser removes excess sebum without signalling your skin to produce more.

BHA toner — 1–2× per week only

After cleanse

How to apply

Apply with a cotton pad, sweep gently across skin. Only 1–2× per week — not daily. Skip on days skin feels irritated.

What to look for

BHA (salicylic acid) 0.5–2%

Salicylic acid at 1–2%. Fragrance-free. No alcohol base. On non-BHA days, use a soothing hydrating toner instead.

Why: BHA is oil-soluble — it gets inside pores to dissolve congestion. But daily use causes over-exfoliation and worsens breakouts. 1–2× per week is the sweet spot.

Lightweight oil-free moisturizer

Do not skip this

How to apply

Pea-sized amount. Pat into skin — don't rub. Gel textures absorb quickly and won't clog pores. Never skip this step.

What to look for

Gel or water-cream moisturizer

Non-comedogenic. Oil-free. Key ingredients: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, centella. No mineral oil or heavy occlusives.

Why: Skipping moisturizer is the #1 mistake for acne-prone skin. Dehydrated skin produces more oil to compensate — more oil means more breakouts. Moisture balances oil.

Lightweight SPF 50+

Last step · AM only

How to apply

Two finger-lengths. Pat in gently. Korean SPF formulas are designed to be invisible and non-greasy — don't skip them because of texture.

What to look for

Hybrid or chemical SPF 50+

Non-comedogenic formula. Matte or satin finish. Lightweight — not a thick sunblock. Korean SPFs are best for oily skin.

Why: Post-acne marks (PIH) darken dramatically with UV exposure. SPF is your #1 tool for fading dark spots and preventing new ones from forming.

Oil cleanse + low-pH gel second cleanse

First at night

How to apply

Yes — oil cleansing first even for oily skin. Massage onto dry face 60 seconds. Emulsify, rinse. Follow with gel cleanser. Pat dry.

What to look for

Non-comedogenic cleansing oil + gel

Cleansing oil: no coconut oil, no isopropyl myristate. Light jojoba or sunflower base. Gel cleanser: same as AM.

Why: Oil dissolves sebum, sunscreen, and makeup better than any water-based cleanser. For acne skin, this prevents the pore congestion that causes closed comedones.

Niacinamide or centella toner

After cleanse

How to apply

Pat into skin with palms. No cotton pads at night — friction on active breakouts makes them worse. One layer is enough.

What to look for

Niacinamide or centella toner

Key ingredients: niacinamide (5–10%), centella asiatica, green tea extract, panthenol.

Why: Niacinamide regulates sebum production and fades post-acne marks overnight. It's the most effective ingredient for acne-prone skin that isn't an exfoliant.

Retinol or BHA treatment — 2× per week

Before moisturizer

How to apply

On treatment nights only (Mon/Thu). Pea-sized amount. Wait 20 minutes before moisturizer. Never layer BHA and retinol in the same night.

What to look for

Retinol 0.025–0.05% OR BHA 1–2%

Start with the lowest percentage. Alternate — never use both on the same night. Introduce one at a time.

Why: Retinol accelerates cell turnover to clear clogged pores. BHA dissolves excess sebum in pores. Both work — but not together, and not every night.

Lightweight gel moisturizer

Last step

How to apply

Press into skin with palms. Slightly more generous than AM — skin still needs moisture at night even if oily. Focus on dry patches.

What to look for

Same gel or water-cream as AM

Consistency across AM and PM is key. Adding a heavy night cream is unnecessary and will clog pores for oily skin types.

Why: Moisturizer is the buffer between your active treatments and your barrier. Skipping it after retinol or BHA is what causes the irritation and peeling people mistakenly think is "normal."

4 golden rules for acne & oily skin

Never skip moisturizer

Dehydrated skin overproduces oil. Moisturizer balances sebum — skipping it is the fastest way to make acne worse.

One active at a time

Introduce retinol OR BHA — never both at once. Give each 4 weeks before adding anything new to your routine.

Don't touch your face

Hands transfer bacteria directly into pores. Change your pillowcase weekly. Clean your phone screen daily. These matter more than most products.

SPF fades acne marks

Post-acne PIH darkens 10× faster without UV protection. SPF is your most effective brightening and anti-scar tool.

Routine Guide 03

Aging & Fine Lines

Focused on stimulating collagen, protecting skin from UV damage, and deeply nourishing a maturing barrier. The K-beauty approach to aging gracefully.

Gentle low-pH cleanser

Morning · 60 sec

How to apply

Lukewarm water rinse or a gentle milky cleanser. Avoid foaming formulas in the AM — they strip natural oils that mature skin needs.

What to look for

pH 4.5–5.5 milk or balm cleanser

Fragrance-free. No sulfates. Creamy or balm texture preferred for mature skin. Look for ceramide or peptide-enriched cleansers.

Why: Mature skin produces less sebum and has a naturally thinner barrier. Harsh cleansers remove what little oil is there — which accelerates the appearance of fine lines.

Antioxidant vitamin C serum

AM only · Before SPF

How to apply

3–4 drops onto clean dry skin. Press in with fingertips. Wait 60 seconds before next step. AM use only — never layer with retinol at night.

What to look for

Vitamin C 10–15% (L-ascorbic acid)

Stable formula — check for oxidation (turns orange). Key ingredients: L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E, ferulic acid. Store away from light.

Why: Vitamin C neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution before they damage collagen. Applied before SPF, it amplifies sun protection and visibly brightens over time.

Peptide or ceramide moisturizer

Damp skin

How to apply

Apply to damp skin from toner or water mist. Press in with palms. Don't forget neck and décolletage — treat exactly the same as your face.

What to look for

Peptide-rich or ceramide moisturizer

Key ingredients: palmitoyl tripeptide, matrixyl, ceramides, niacinamide. Rich but fast-absorbing.

Why: Peptides signal skin to produce more collagen. Ceramides prevent moisture loss. Together they plump fine lines from the inside out — without the irritation of retinol.

Mineral SPF 50+ — every single day

Last step · AM only

How to apply

Two finger-lengths. Pat into skin — do not rub. Apply to neck and chest too. Reapply every 2 hours if outdoors or near windows.

What to look for

Mineral SPF 50+ with skincare benefits

Zinc oxide base. Hydrating formula. Look for added peptides, niacinamide, or antioxidants. Korean tinted SPFs are excellent for mature skin.

Why: 90% of visible aging — wrinkles, spots, loss of elasticity — comes from UV exposure. SPF is the single most effective anti-aging product that exists. Everything else is secondary.

Balm cleanse + gentle milk second cleanse

First at night

How to apply

Massage cleansing balm on dry skin for 60 seconds. Emulsify with water, rinse. Follow with milky second cleanser. Pat dry with soft cloth.

What to look for

Nourishing cleansing balm + milk

Balm: look for added plant oils (rosehip, marula). Milk cleanser: ceramide or peptide-enriched formula for mature skin.

Why: Mature skin needs thorough but nourishing cleansing. A balm removes SPF and makeup while depositing beneficial oils — leaving skin ready to absorb treatments, not feeling stripped.

Hydrating essence or toner

After cleanse

How to apply

Pat into skin with palms. Layer twice for maximum absorption. The K-beauty essence step is where anti-aging work begins — don't rush it.

What to look for

Fermented or peptide essence

Key ingredients: galactomyces ferment filtrate, bifida ferment lysate, snail secretion filtrate, hyaluronic acid.

Why: Fermented ingredients (galactomyces, bifida) are the backbone of Korean anti-aging. They visibly tighten pores, even skin tone, and accelerate cell renewal — with zero irritation.

Retinol treatment — 2–3× per week

On treatment nights only

How to apply

Pea-sized amount on dry skin. Wait 20 minutes before moisturizer. Start 2× per week. Never use same night as AHA. Always follow with rich cream.

What to look for

Retinol 0.025–0.1%

Start at lowest percentage. Encapsulated retinol for sensitive skin. Build up slowly over 8–12 weeks. Never skip moisturizer after.

Why: Retinol is the only topical ingredient clinically proven to stimulate collagen production, smooth fine lines, and accelerate cell turnover. It is the gold standard of anti-aging — used correctly.

Rich peptide night cream

Every night · Face + neck

How to apply

Generous amount. Press into face, neck, and décolletage. Every single night without exception. Optional: add 2–3 drops of rosehip oil to the cream.

What to look for

Peptide or collagen-boosting night cream

Key ingredients: matrixyl 3000, argireline, ceramides, squalane, vitamin E. Rich but not pore-blocking.

Why: Peptides work synergistically with retinol — they signal collagen production while retinol accelerates it. Together they're the most effective non-invasive anti-aging combination available.

Hydrogel or collagen sheet mask — 2× per week

After essence, before night cream

How to apply

After essence step. Leave 20 minutes. Pat remaining serum in. Go straight to night cream. On non-retinol nights for best results.

What to look for

Hydrogel or collagen mask

Key ingredients: hydrolysed collagen, EGF, peptides, adenosine. Avoid AHA-based masks — too irritating when using retinol.

Why: Hydrogel masks deliver high concentrations of actives under occlusion — making them significantly more effective than applying the same ingredients in a regular serum.

4 golden rules for aging & fine lines

SPF is your #1 anti-aging product

90% of visible aging comes from UV. No retinol or peptide undoes daily sun damage. SPF every day, indoors and out.

Treat your neck the same as your face

The neck shows aging faster than the face. Every product — toner, serum, SPF, night cream — goes down to your chest too. Every time.

Introduce retinol slowly

Start 2× per week at the lowest percentage. Build over 8–12 weeks. Irritation is not progress — it's damage. Slow and consistent wins.

Hydration plumps fine lines

Many fine lines are dehydration lines, not structural aging. A well-hydrated skin looks dramatically younger before any active ingredients do anything.

Ready for something custom?

Your skin is unique.
Your routine should be too.

These guides cover the foundation — but every skin is different. Book a virtual consultation with SunMi and get a fully personalised Korean skincare routine built around your exact skin, concerns, and budget.

Book a virtual consultation

Brooklyn Heights · Virtual consultations available worldwide

Your Korean skincareroutine — built for you

Dry & Sensitive Skin

Acne & Oily Skin

Aging & Fine Lines

Your Korean skincare
routine — built for you